[Archive] Assembling FW IG

system · 17 July 2012 04:18

brotsorrow:

Hey guys i need some help. Before i cut the arm pieces of their sprues, how are they paired? Are the two As a right and left or are they both the same (either a right or left?)

Saxon · 17 July 2012 05:32

Satan:

They’re coupled. Just put the fancy symbols facing upwards on each side of the miniature and you should probably see it.

system · 17 July 2012 06:01

CopperPot:

Good luck with ranking them up can be a nightmare.

system · 17 July 2012 12:41

brotsorrow:

@ Satan - thanks. Hopefully in the next few days i get to cleaning the arms

@ CopperPot - really? This might make me procrastinate even longer…

system · 17 July 2012 02:44

Grimbold Blackhammer:

I thought it was just my poor assembly skills. They rank up poorly. Then you add the champion and they don’t rank up at all.

Grimbold Blackhammer

system · 17 July 2012 05:19

khedyarl:

I actually found that the ONLY ones that ranked up properly were the command, Grim.

The standard, Champion and musician interlock beautifully. Then the rest just kind of shuffle together in a dog pile.

system · 18 July 2012 09:07

brotsorrow:

SO is the secret in assembling the warriors properly or taking the patience when gluing them to the bases?

PyroStick · 18 July 2012 09:25

Pyro Stick:

SO is the secret in assembling the warriors properly or taking the patience when gluing them to the bases?

brotsorrow

Both unfortunately. You could just build them any way you want and glue them down any way you want but chances are a few wont rank up at all. You can assemble the IG any way you want but make sure they are kind of hunched up so theres no chance of the weapons or shields banging into the models next to them. I also went and bought 2 different types of modular bases so that the models would be at different levels and angles and i think it helped a bit. Have a look at mine:

http://www.chaos-dwarfs.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=825&pid=179688#pid179688

As you can see i made the one on the front left "too big" by sticking the axe too far out and the shield too far out so the model looks really square head on and the only way i could rank it up was at the end of a row and almost sideways. After that i glued the weapons and shields on much closer to the bodies.

system · 18 July 2012 09:50

brotsorrow:

Thanks for the advice Pyro… just for clarification, when you say closer to the body - you mean turning the arms in so for example the shield hand would be against the models “belly”.

I think i made this mistake with my current project - hobgoblins (skaven torsos and beastman arms - im blaming my mistakes on the arms being made for 25mm bases)

PyroStick · 18 July 2012 10:24

Pyro Stick:

Thanks for the advice Pyro..... just for clarification, when you say closer to the body - you mean turning the arms in so for example the shield hand would be against the models "belly".

I think i made this mistake with my current project - hobgoblins (skaven torsos and beastman arms - im blaming my mistakes on the arms being made for 25mm bases)

brotsorrow

Yeah turn the arms so they are against the belly, but not so close that they look stupid. I don't think there's much you can do with the positioning of the arm pieces, just the weapon and shield hands.

system · 19 July 2012 05:56

CopperPot:

Second that, resin bases really do help.

system · 19 July 2012 06:20

brotsorrow:

Second that, resin bases really do help.

CopperPot

Hey CopperPot, what do you mean resin bases? Are these aftermarket ones?

PyroStick · 19 July 2012 07:45

Pyro Stick:

Second that, resin bases really do help.

CopperPot
Hey CopperPot, what do you mean resin bases? Are these aftermarket ones?

brotsorrow

These kind of bases: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mm-SQUARE-CRACKED-EARTH-LAVA-RESIN-BASES-X10-/280371228553?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item41476d6f89

system · 19 July 2012 07:46

brotsorrow:

Thanks Pyro - these are so expensive though… any cheaper options or better just to make my own?

PyroStick · 19 July 2012 07:52

Pyro Stick:

Thanks Pyro - these are so expensive though.... any cheaper options or better just to make my own?

brotsorrow

£3.50 for 10 nice resin bases seems like a good deal to me considering Games Workshop sell 10 standard 20mm bases for £3.

system · 19 July 2012 07:59

brotsorrow:

For sure, but i would want to base all my models in the army the same way, including my horde of hobgoblins. This said, it might be a small price to pay to get these models to rank up

PyroStick · 19 July 2012 08:01

Pyro Stick:

For sure, but i would want to base all my models in the army the same way, including my horde of hobgoblins. This said, it might be a small price to pay to get these models to rank up

brotsorrow

Oh well if you are going to use that many its probably not worth it. I only use them for characters and IG. You might as well just go the cork route then if you can get hold of enough for a good price. Thats probably exactly how these were made:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/painted-resin-20mm-square-lava-bases-for-warhammer-40k-/320879279269?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item4ab5e53ca5#ht_500wt_1054

system · 19 July 2012 08:53

CopperPot:

Second that, resin bases really do help.

CopperPot
Hey CopperPot, what do you mean resin bases? Are these aftermarket ones?

brotsorrow
These kind of bases: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mm-SQUARE-CRACKED-EARTH-LAVA-RESIN-BASES-X10-/280371228553?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item41476d6f89

Pyro Stick

These are the ones I'm currently using nice bases can be self made just as good using cork and some fine sand.

system · 19 July 2012 08:53

Ugly Green Trog:

I actually made a custom movement tray from plasticard with individual holes for each IG with a 2mm gap in between. works well and any slight advantage gained by having a slightly wider frontage is negated by the fact that there is more unit to hit with templates and the like!

system · 20 July 2012 03:46

gIL^:

Honestly They can’t be worse than the 4th ed plastics.