[Archive] Bloodbeards Sci-Fi/Post-Apo Blog

Fuggit Khan:

Cool! Those are some awesome conversion bits…and what a clever idea, adding bits to Hot Wheel cars. Are the bits plastic or resin?

And thanks for sharing the link, I’ve already downloaded the rules :cheers

Bloodbeard:

Cool! Those are some awesome conversion bits...and what a clever idea, adding bits to Hot Wheel cars. Are the bits plastic or resin?
And thanks for sharing the link, I've already downloaded the rules :cheers

Fuggit Khan
Sharing is caring. The bits I've ordered are all resin.

Finished the Crane!
Finally got around to finishing up the cranes paintjob. I'm very pleased with the final result. Army Painter had free shipping + two cans of free spray as an anniversary deal. So I got myself some new brushes. Some good quality terrain brushes really speeded thigns up.




Some cannisters made from nuts and bolts. Add some weight.


The entire crane is washed in Agrax Earthshade and all metal areas in Nuln Oil. Then I've tried out vallejo pigment powders for the first time. Rust powder and black soot powder. Works nicely.


Also got myself some GW technical paints. Nurgles rot, corrosion, blood for the blood god. They are absolutely fantastic! Better blood effect than I've been able to do myself.


Note how the acid slime have dripped to the platform below.


I've added some signs as well. Guess the guy getting dragged down the ladder wasn't "autherized".


Sign on the door says "overhead crane". A poor guy have had his head blown off in the elevator shaft.


Better look at the top. The paint really adds lots of detail to the build. The green wire, blues cannisters and the red blood. Works great as a contrast to the yellow building.


I printed out a lot of different danger sign at my work. Also made a lot of diagonal danger stripes, much better than painting the myself. Printed it on sticker labels.

TheHoodedMan:

Fantastic.

A really great piece. The citadel technicals work well, that’s true. Have to try out the pigments, too.

Threadbare:

Some great stuff here, you’re really turning those sprues into something.

Those conversion bits from ramshackle are nice. Might have to get some of those to add to my ever growing pile of dark future cars.

Fuggit Khan:


Sign on the door says "overhead crane". A poor guy have had his head blown off in the elevator shaft.



Bloodbeard
I love it!  
...it reminds me of the classic scene in the 1981 sci-fi movie "Outland" when Cane rides the elevator
:o

Admiral:

Marvellous scratchbuild and details. Great crane!

Abecedar:

Have showed this to my son and he immediately went into “I’m going to make something too” mode.

So very inspirational.

Bloodbeard:

Have showed this to my son and he immediately went into "I'm going to make something too" mode.
So very inspirational.

Abecedar
Very nice to hear that. Hope he builds something cool. I love sprue, it's a great material.

Landing Pad - done!
Managed to finish my landing pad. Really have helped my painting speed to buy some better, harder and larger brushes from Army Painter. Still won't manage to finish my november pledge - that should include the tower and container as well.



Those printed stickers are a fantastic way to add details to a build like this and break up the large areas.



I had much better results with Vallejos pigment powders this time around. I must say I really like the rust effect. The sticker on the red cannister is blurred, but it's a warning for explosives.



The black pigment powder works very well with the GW technical Typhus Corrosion. Like the run off seen here on the side.



The sign on the trap door says "Danger! Crush Zone - Keep Clear!"



And a few more cannisters spilling ooze, like seenon the crane. This will go on most terrain pieces. Could be used to explain plague outbreaks, sabotage from Ver-Myn (space skavens), zombie apocalypse (like in return of the living dead).



Now I need a Hornet or Intercepter to land here. Will look so cool with one of those fliers. Have one of each coming from the Warpath Kickstarter.

Grimstonefire:

Looks really nice, but could do with paint chipped off all over showing bare metal imo.

Bloodbeard:

Looks really nice, but could do with paint chipped off all over showing bare metal imo.

Grimstonefire
You're absolutely right, thanks for the input. Admiral suggested it for the crane.

I was going to to some chipped paint with brown splashes of paint, filled with boltgun metal.

The pictures don't really capture the heave wash of brown and black that well. After washing the walls I chose not to to the chipped paint thing - simply to save painting time and be able to move on to other projects.

Might go back an do it, when I've made enough building for the board.

Abecedar:

Good use of the superglue lids. I’ve been keeping a few because I thought that they would be useful for something.

Grimstonefire:

I’ve seen tutorial where they use the foam padding you get in metal blisters to put paint chips or mud on. just the dirty part then painting metal here and there. A natural way to spread it.

TheHoodedMan:

Fantastic Terrain for any SciFi Skirmisher. Congratulations. A helicopter or something like that will be great to look at and a fantastic objective at once.

I once read about using salt to achieve weathering effects. Basecoat metal, salt, basecoat other color.

But I don´t think you need this for your pieces. Look at some used industrial equipment. There are only very few areas where you can see metal shining through, dozer shields for example. You can edge highlight such areas with metal Colors if you want but I won`t overdo that.

Admiral:

Yes, fantastic terrain. Well done, Bloodbeard! If all terrain held that quality, every game would be a pleasure to the eye to view. As said, sponge and salt works, though start carefully and don’t overdo it. Also, nice to see someone else making use of oddball bits like glue lids.

Fuggit Khan:

Great stuff again Bloodbeard :cheers

As Abecedar pointed out with the super glue lids, I’m always impressed and amazed at your ability to salvage every bit to making something useful. Very cool :hat off

And as others have mentioned, rock salt makes for some very nice “chipped” paint effects, and is easy to do. Using sponges is also effective, and surprisingly easy once you get the hang of it. I use sponges to make mottled camo paint schemes on my WWI plane models.

Scar:

Very cool crane! :slight_smile:

This message was automatically appended because it was too short.

Bloodbeard:

Thanks for the compliments and advice gentlemen!

Devils Run: Route 666

Monday a couple of the guys are coming over. Traditionally we’ve been playing triumph and treachery every winter. But this year we are going for many different games, lots of beer and a winter BBQ.

I’ve just finished converting the cars needed for the 8 standard missions in Devils Run: Route 666.

This is Hotwheels Cars with Ramshackle Game bits. The Buggy (gokart) was made with some plastic rod bend over a candle and metal net.

The game i 20 mm.

The road tiles are made on the same foam I use for loads of different terrain.















Still need a bit of work. Are done, so that the will fit onto a Deadzone Map.

Other games

We’ll be playing Robo rally, Frag, Frostgrave, Dreadball Extreme and Deadzone.

I hope to get some paint onto the cars above. But I also need to assemble: Some Deadzone strike teams, some debris and impassable terrain for devils run, some deadzone terrain and a frostgrave warband.

Before Monday.

Fuggit Khan:

Love 'em! Those Ramshackle resin drivers are perfect for those HotWheel cars…and I love the guys riding shotgun (literally).

Now you need to make a War Rig with skulls :cheers

Bloodbeard:

@Fuggit Khan: I was surprised to see just how most expression there could be in a 20mm model. They are small, but they have character!

Games Played!

Played some games of Devils Run last night. Had four guys over. 2 on each team. One guy would take control of the teams car, the other had control of bike/trike/buggy. The switched after each mission.

I functioned as gamemaster.

All guys found the game fun and easy to pick up. They were amazed of the detail in expression small 20mm miniatures could have (Ramshackle). So after showing them some of the actual renders and minis for the game, they wanted onboard. So we’re looking forward to retail.

Everybody is looking forward to the Advanced Rules, wanting to build their own gangs now. And the encouraged me to play some demogames at a small convention in february (two of the guys are behind that one). So I will make some more roads, cars and card sets for that.

I you want to try a new game, give this a go. Can be played with toy cars without any work, rules and cards are free for download. Word Forge Games even have a “print and play” pdf, with road tiles and counters.

Counters - Debris and Impassable Terrain!

After 20 years with no road maintanence, the route 666 is littered with trash. Made some counters for debris and impassable terrain.

Made them on thin plasticcard painted as the asphalt. Counters still need some work, drybrushing, blood, oilspills, rust, watereffect.

Trees are cheap from aliexpress, concret blocks are resin leftovers from a forgeworld model.

Bloodbeard:

Finished my Deadzone Enforcer Striketeam. Really like this models. They look elite and sci-fi, much better than Space Marines in my opinion.

This is the starter box plus a special mercenary scout and Strider (the robot is a bit higher than a Dreadnaught). Strider had to be warm water treated to fit together, the gun was all bend out of shape.

Small conversions done, build both heavy laser and flamer (only meant to be one I think). Added a napalm tank to the flamers back. Drilled holes in barrels.

Bases are GW round ones, like them better than the mantic bases. Most miniatures come fixed to a small base, that fit into a slot on the bigger ones. Cut all minis off with a saw.

My bases are made with Greenstuff World Factory Floor Roll Pin on a 50:50 mix of miliput and Playdough (plasticine).

Painting was done quick. White base coat with a spray. Pick out the details in other colours. No highlighting, no wash, only drybrushed the two cloaks.

Then I gave them all Army Painter Quick Shade (a varnish). Have to dry for 24 hours. Then gave it anti shine spray (you can use matt hair spray). Lastly added blood effect.

Fast and effective, I like the result on the white colour. A way to get minis done fast. Best effect is that the varnish and anti-shine offers lot of painting job protection when minis get moved, flipped, tipped and used.









Next up is 16 Forge Fathers (space dwarfs) - pledged to be done before February.