[Archive] Blue Stuff Mould Making

cornixt:

I’ve been playing around with this mould-making material called blue stuff that is sold by Greenstuffworld. There doesn’t seem to be much discussion of it on the web, just a few videos. There is a Japanese brand of the same stuff that you can supposedly get at Walmart, which is sold as a toy for shaping little models from it, rather than as a mould. I’ve had blue stuff a couple of weeks so here is my impression of it so far (pun intended).

The website of Greenstuffworld does not make it clear how much you get. I bought the 8g box. The 4g box would make a single two-part mould for something the size of a 32mm model. It’s completely reusable, so once you are finished with a mould you can just reheat it in boiling water and make a new one. It’s cheap too, much cheaper than a resin casting kit. But the moulds it makes are not as high quality and are a little more limited in scope since you have to push greenstuff into every part. You can only use hot water to heat it up (if it was microwavable then it would be awesome), and when it cools it maintains its shape but has the characteristics of rubber.

It needs to be really hot to be good enough to make a decent mould. I have to make sure I stick it in just-boiled water or it remains too rubbery to pick up all the detail. Even after a few minutes of sitting, the hot water is no longer good enough. Rubbery-ness is the enemy of making a mould since you lose hard definition. This means that the mould has to be made just seconds after you pull it out, waiting too long gives you a crappy mould. After a bit of experience, you’ll notice straight away and can just reheat and redo.

You can use painted models to make a mould, not even varnished, no problem. The blue stuff just peels off it nicely when hardened. I’ve used several different model types to make moulds - white metal, Reaper Bones, styrene plastic, greenstuff. Not found any that don’t work yet.

For a simple press mould, you can use any modelling material that you can remove without deforming too much. Some stuff can get stuck and will stretch and pull as you twist the mould to get it out. I plan to experiment with Sculpey/Fimo to see if I can stop this - maybe line the mould with vaseline first. Hopefully it will work since my main aim is to make dungeon tiles with cheap Sculpey.

If making a two-half mould, make sure that the first half of the mould has cooled before you make the second half. Otherwise, the second half will stick to the first half and you’ll have to cut them apart. You can only use self-hardening clays, something that needs to be baked will not work since you can’t bake the mould. Fill both halves of the mould with green stuff or similar, then press them together and leave until fully hardened.

Don’t overfill the mould halves with green stuff or it creates a thick mould line and the model isn’t quite the right shape. This can be hard to judge, since the rubbery-ness of the making the mould can create a soft/curved edge making it unclear where to stop filling. It’s very tempting to overfill, but it creates a deformed model that doesn’t look good, while an underfilled model is still pretty much the right shape but just needs a few gaps filled.

You can fit an armature inside if you are careful before fitting the two halves of the mould together.

This is where I see you thinking you could make (i.e. copy) a whole army this way. I guess you could, although the mould lines on everything I have made so far are much more visible than anything on a bought model. I would have to find a greenstuff alternative that is better at being filed down. I wouldn’t recommend it either, especially if you playing at a GW store since it is obvious to anyone picking it up that it is not made from resin, plastic, or metal. It could pass easily for a Reaper Bones model when painted. Cost-wise you would probably be better off buying plastic troops, but characters… Making copies of bits is one thing, but ripping off on a large scale makes me uncomfortable (although if I’d had this when I was 16 and time-rich/money-poor I would probably have a much bigger CD army). My main goal right now is making tokens for Blood Bowl, but my list of other projects for it is getting longer and longer (sculpted bases, objective markers, dungeon furniture) while my wife just wants to make copies of the fairies and sprites she has sculpted.

I’m still very new at this, so feel free to add your own tips.

Carcearion:

I have been playing around with blue stuff molds off and on for about a year and have gotten very mixed results.

After experimenting with allot if different materials I have found a 50/50 mix of Milliput and Greenstuff to give me the best results and the easiest to work with.

For doing one sided molds this stuff is amazing, if your doing a token or a shield you basically can’t go wrong.

Double sided molds however have been challenging for me. The most complicated thing I’ve successfully recast was a head (compete with elaborate hat and horns) - but this took a few tries. I have so far failed to recast a whole miniature (even simple one piece miniatures) and have made several attempts at it (although I think it’s possible, it just requires a little skill and know-how that takes time to develop messing around with this stuff).

All in all I would highly recommend Bluestuff to anybody in the hobby - but bigger plans you might have for it could require allot more time and effort than you bargained for.

cornixt:

Which type of milliput do you use?

Carcearion:

I used the standard Milliput (just plain Milliput not the fine or any of that), I’ve gotten a thing of the fine Milliput but I havent had the chance to see how well it mixes with Greenstuff yet.

The two materials mix together remarkably well, the mix takes on the strengths of both materials.

Bloodbeard:

I love bluestuff and have been using it a lot. I’ve only used it to make double size molds and it works realy well.

Super heat the blue stuff before use (I boil it in the microwave).

Press the model gently (and below half the mass) down the putty and let it cool.

Make the second half. I’ve cut an old pill box into a pipe, with room for a model inside. So all the putty won’t spill to the side. I place it under my sofa - because you need a lot of pressure. Let it cool.

Afterwards I redo the first half. Reheat that part of the bluestuff, put back on the model. Press under a sofa. You’ll have super sharp details on both sides.

Three of these five model are done making a bluestuff mold and then completely greenstuff.

Carcearion:

You actually put the bluestuff itself directly in the microwave???

Bloodbeard:

You actually put the bluestuff itself directly in the microwave???

Carcearion
In a cup of water. I find it's best to have it in boiling water for 3 minutes, not near boiling water. Makes a difference in how well it forms around the small details.

Most importantly is all the pressure. That sofa does it all.

cornixt:

Here is the first facedown/faceup token that I will use for my Bull Centaurs in Blood Bowl where they are not easy to put in those positions.