brotsorrow:
Hey guys i need some advice. I have never worked with green stuff before. I am making hobgoblins from storm vermin bodies and goblin arms and heads. Do i need to glue the green stuff i need to use to make the back of the head and neck of the heads? or will will it bond enough to the head bitz?
brotsorrow:
Hey guys i need some advice. I have never worked with green stuff before. I am making hobgoblins from storm vermin bodies and goblin arms and heads. Do i need to glue the green stuff i need to use to make the back of the head and neck of the heads? or will will it bond enough to the head bitz?
GRNDL:
It will bond while it hasn’t cured (ie: drying). You have about 30 mins before it goes tacky and begins to harden and about 1-2 hrs after that until its hardened up. No glue required. When its dry, you can glue things to the GS with superglue/cyanoacrylate glue.
beefcake:
For extra strength you could add a small pin in the head socket first to help it bond even more. That would make it less likely to knock out. But after curing as said it should be pretty strong. I’d probably put the pin in first then make the basic head armature around that first and then do the details as without that it will just push around too much and look a bit warped.
CopperPot:
Also to make sure you have a tub of water available to keep your fingers moist or the green stuff will stick to your fingers, and also to keep whatever tool you are using to sculpt wet.
When you start getting into using greenstuff and you try to start making cooler stuff you will come across the problem of having your fingerprints in the GS the way to get round this is by using surgical gloves I know people that do this but I don’t like this so I use my wife’s lip balm or vaseline works a treat gives a nice smooth finish.
Admiral:
Mix roughly equal amounts of yellow and blue modelling putty and knead this until you have an even green stuff, without blue or yellow strings in the putty.
Drill, glue and pin the head to the body and when this has dried apply green stuff. Pinning should always be contemplated to strenghten your models!
Be sure not to let water slip in between the surface and the green stuff that is applied to said surface. If you do, chances are likely the green stuff will not fasten to the surface/s.
Fingerprinted green stuff can also be prevented by stroking a water-soaked finger or sculpting tool gently across the surface to erase the fingerprints.
Here are some links to tutorials for green stuff sculpting:
General sculpting: http://www.ebobminiatures.com/sculpting/sculpting.htm
Sculpting chainmail: Miniature Tim: Pushing Around Green Stuff: Chain Mail
Faces: Sculpt face in 10 minutes 28mm/54mm
Flames: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=43941
Hands: http://xenite.wordpress.com/modeling-painting-and-hobby-articles/sculpting-hands-with-greenstuff/
Making money: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/30
Foot tracks: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/44
Cloaks: Corbania Prime: Tutorial : How to sculpt green stuff cloaks and capes
Tankards: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/51
brotsorrow:
Thank you very much guys. I greatly appreciate the advice and links. I am chuckling as now i think i may have the confidence to do these conversions 
. Why am i nervous about green stuff that won’t even bee seen?
brotsorrow:
Thank you very much guys. I greatly appreciate the advice and links. I am chuckling as now i think i may have the confidence to do these conversions . Why am i nervous about green stuff that won’t even bee seen?