Admiral:
Excellent pictures! Thanks a lot for those, Khan. :cheers
Dînadan:
Wow, Man o War ships are tiny compared to Uncharted Seas by the looks of it.
Admiral:
On the flip side, following closer to their scale will reduce material costs. And all smallscale fantasy naval ranges will still work well together, because the scale can be relative indeed.
Also, Fuggit Khan and Red Skullz will join the industrial fervour. Not anytime soon, but later on. This will be a special miniature range. 
Dînadan:
Here’s an idea - how about having a mix of Man o War size ships and Uncharted Seas sized ships and having the fluff be that the Man o War ships are the older designs and the US ships are the newer, mass produced designs; the smaller Man o War ships could be more eclectic in design while the larger US ships are more uniform reflecting a shift in design ethos (older ships were labours of love by daemonsmiths/engineers who put their own personal touches to designs while newer ships follow a more rigid manufacturing process).
Scale wise they’d all be 1mm, but it would allow for those sculpting ships more freedom and would help them mix with both systems as they want
Admiral:
These ships will vary quite a lot in size, though they’ll probably all look like tailored masterpieces of some eccentric shipwright. The variety of sculptors will see to that as well as their various unique ideas (meaning diversity within a single sculptor’s output if he makes several ships), and I wouldn’t want it any other way.
But, as said, we’ll keep it relatively small and numerous and really detailed, rather than large. Some vessels might well end up a tad titanic, and that’ll probably be all fine given their equipment, but on the large we want to cram in more ships into the moulds, not fewer.
Dînadan:
Oh I don’t mean having loads of massive ships, I was referring more along the lines of a fluff explanation why a MoW battleship is the size of a US cruiser 
Admiral:
It could also be the other way around with smaller vessels in Man o’ War size being mass-produced, and larger ones in Uncharted Seas size being one of a kind masterpieces. Whatever row your boat.
Besides, the common log for this project is run in tandem on Warseer. You only need to post sculpting updates with pictures here on CDO should you wish, and I’ll post a quote of your work over on Warseer. We’ll get better reach that way.
Grimstonefire:
Wow, to our scale that would mean each rocket on those mow would be a 5 storey building or something silly!? :o
Dînadan:
@Admiral: true, true. I was only think MoW would be the signally produced ones because of the ornamentation/character they have and that you’re putting into them while the US minis tend to be starker/cleaner and more like something freshly rolled off the assembly line
@Grimstonefire: I have a hunch that scale wasn’t thought of by the MoW sculptors - eg the Taurus and rider from that range are probably closer to 6mm scale I think (Fuggit or someone else with access to the mini will have to check). Plus they may have exaggerated some bits partly to make it more visual on the tabletop and partly to make casting easier. And five stories isn’t much to sniff at - the torpedoes fired by BFG ships are nearly as tall as St. Steven’s Tower!
Grimstonefire:
Can I just clarify something, what material are you thinking to have these cast in? As it’s quite relevant in terms of construction.
Being cast in metal requires stronger built models.
Which is important if you’re constructing mostly out of plasticard. I’ve been filling my hull void etc in with greenstuff.
Admiral:
Very good point. I had been thinking of metal (resin would be fine as an alternative, though it’d be up to whichever caster gets the job), and since all my models are sculpted on bits of plastic sprue with lots of pinned needles and paper clip skeletons for any protruding parts, they should stand the mould.
Perhaps we should avoid plasticard as far as possible to make sure the sculpts end up endurable?
Besides, surely you have seen this five storey rocket before?
Grimstonefire:
I think as long as there are no air pockets and any protruding parts are sculpted on wire then plasticard should be fine.
Its effectively the same if gaps are filled in, just more uniformly smooth and a lot quicker.
I have had plastic pressure cast before no problem, but I’ll do some research to see if thinner plastic (I.e. Plasticard) is ok heat wise.
Grimstonefire:
Including moulding costs I reckon resin casting would be around 40% cheaper overall, and perhaps more suitable for a low production run.
Admiral:
Useful points to know. I had planned to ask you about casting tips and recommended casters down the road.
Resin would be the material of choice, then. It will be handy to know if plasticard can stand the heat during mouldmaking.
Abecedar:
but I'll do some research to see if thinner plastic (I.e. Plasticard) is ok heat wise.I've heated and bent thin and thick plasticard stuff whilst making a flying carpet.
Grimstonefire
It bent easily then retained that shape when it cooled.
Grimstonefire:
Unless its spincast resin aka “restic” (which we are very unlikely to do) resin moulding is very low pressure in comparison.
Grimstonefire:
From warseer:
Having worked as a master model maker at a metal casting facility, no, styrene is not suitable for the vulcanising process. It will deform badly. While masters are often made using styrene and other materials, an interim master is usually used cast in resin. By molding up the initial master in RTV and casting it in resin you are able to do any final cleaning up as well as breaking it apart into various components as well as hollowing it out. You want to use a resin that that as a good shore hardness and temperature
Grimstonefire:
I still think resin would be our best bet.
Admiral:
This is very good to know. Thank you for sharing your insights, Grimstonefire! We’ll head toward resin then. I just hope the small ships won’t suffer from air bubbles ruining details.
Two questions just to get green light: Shall we build the basis of some vessels from plasticard (naturally with some plastic sprue spine or the other to pin into)? And what minimum thickness of plasticard could we use? Jackswift is back again and will soon share some sketches.
Work is progressing on the escort ships, though it will be some days before the next finished escort can be posted.
Grimstonefire:
I think the best idea at the moment is to tidy up our sketches and load them up and decide what to do from there, in terms of division of work.
A professional quality caster will de-gas the moulding rubber as well as the resin. So air bubbles should be minimal if any, and if they are bad you ask to be supplied with ones without bubbles at no charge, which would be expected imo.
My first ship will hopefully be finished for basic construction today, the one with the chainsaw out the front then I’ll take some photos.
I think fill in any large voids with greenstuff/sprue as much as possible, using plasticard. If you fill it in well then the thickness can be quite thin, but I’d suggest no less than 0.5mm for anything that isn’t really curving.