[Archive] Sculpting armour


Any tips? I’ve been attempting a Chaos Warrior sculpt but I’m strugling to sculpt a platemail chestplate. Advie would be appreciated especially from experienced sculpters


Not much of a tip, but its wise to have a clear idea ahead of time of what exactly you want it to look like, then break it up into “layers” before mixing up the GS. Oftentimes I think I have exactly what I want something to be in my head, then I start sculpting it and realize that it needs a redesign, or I should have put on the straps first, then the chainmail, then the plate armour, etc.

The planning pays off. Also, try to think of it from more angles than the front.


GRNDL’s advice sounds similar to what I would give. Build it up in layers.

Brown struff may be helpful too if the GS feels too soft.


Sculpt in layers, letting each layer dry first. Look to GW artwork for inspiration.


As everyone else has said use layers, but USE A MIXTURE OF GREENSTUFF + BROWNSTUFF!

I can’t beleive i’m one of the only ones on this site to use it!


As everyone else has said use layers, but USE A MIXTURE OF GREENSTUFF + BROWNSTUFF!

I can't beleive i'm one of the only ones on this site to use it!

/peers curiously at Warplock's outburst.

I've heard of people mixing other modelling mediums like Sculpy/Super Sculpy to get the best of both worlds (usually temperature tolerance, or work time). Why do you like to mix them? What do you feel you get from the mixture?

Just strength/resilience? I use brown stuff for some things and green stuff for others, so I'm curious why you like to mix them together.

Kera foehunter:

Well i use skulley clay for my baces. I MIGHT HAVE TO TRY BROWN STUFF & GREEN STUFF so i can be one of those warplockmonkey groupies


ok, without meaning to sound ubber noobish…brown stuff??? how have i missed this??


Sorry for my outburst my friends, but i dont see why people dont use it more often!

It keeps detail and sticks like greenstuff, but dries hard and is good for corners like brownstuff! The best of both worlds tiddlypeeps!

I think i must start a new revolution into this great moddeling material, please join me and we will conquor the world! MWHAHAHAHAHAH…


Okay, might NOT conquor the world…but just try it at least…


I think that to a lot of people mixing different modelling media is an alien concept. They think of it like a key in a lock, rather than cooking. Change the key and it won’t work with the lock, but with cooking you can change some of the ingredients and still have it work.

I’ll give it a go, but to be honest, I’m not sure where I’d use it. I’m lazy, so mixing up two kinds of stuff, rather than just GS or BS, it just twice the work! :slight_smile:

@craigisnutter, re: brown stuff??? how have i missed this??

Its like GS - a 2 part epoxy putty - but it cures more quickly and is much harder than GS. It doesn’t have the flex that GS has in it when it dries. Its harder to work with for detail stuff because it loses its malleability quickly.

You probably haven’t heard of it because its rarely on sale in model shops (in my experience) and you have to order it by mail/online. I think I got mine through the CoolMiniOrNot store.


dark brownish, greenish stuff hey? I do very basic groundwork in brownstuff, then carve the detail out when its dry, I find I get nice, sharp lines that way


Thanks for the advice guys. It was more how to get smooth curved surfaces that I have trouble with though


Thanks for the advice guys. It was more how to get smooth curved surfaces that I have trouble with though

Ok, this is my approach. I blob on the GS/BS/Apoxie onto the area. I use a concave dental scaler to push the blob into the very rough shape I need. The scaler I use is close to the 10-6-5 scaler on this page:


It has a flat, leaf shaped tool on one end and on the other is similar but it has a 120 deg curve in it, so you can smooth out the putty with a gentle curve to it.

Once basic shaping is done, ie: it looks basically the way it needs to be on the model. I use a generous helping of spit/water and then use a finger to smooth out the bumps. If I push too hard and the shape is distorted I push it back into shape. I then leave it to dry.

Once it is dried hard, I will rotate the figure and look at the outside edge. Any irregularity in the shape with show up as a lump or indentation. Its usually easier to repair on a large model.

To repair lumps I use a Dremel high-speed rotary tool with a diamond engraving/burnishing tool. It is shaped like a bullet and has a rough sanding on it. I can use this on a low setting, gently brushing the side of it across the lumps. I try to keep the tool moving over the lump so the tool doesn't spend too long in one place. For stubborn (or large) lumps I concentrate the tool on them directly.

For small indentations or cracks, I use Superglue - cyanoacrylate, preferably with a gel additive. I apply it to the cracks and then leave it to dry. Once dry, I sand with fine glass paper until smooth.

For large cracks or depressions, its back to the putty.

I got through all this until the surface is smooth as it can be (or I'm bored, whichever is first. :) )

Providing the armour or surface is free from details, its usually not that hard to do.

Once its smooth, then you can add GS details, drill holes, or what have you as you wish.

I hope this is of some help to you.


I have heard that rubbing alcohol is good for removing minor bumps, especially things like fingerprints.  Never tried it myself and I’m not sure if you do it when it is wet or dry.


Rubbing alcohol works with clay-based modelling mediums like Fimo or Super Sculpy, but I haven’t tried it on epoxy. Its worth checking out though. Using water/spit tends to rely more on the pressure of your modelling tool or fingers and IMO doesn’t work very well. Perhaps the rubbing alcohol is the revolution I’m looking for. :slight_smile:


Thanks for the tip GRNDL :cheers I’ve always had touble getting thigs like grieves and breastplates to look like smooth surfaces. I don’t think I’ll be able to use that site (I’m based in the UK and the shiping and customs from America is horrendous) but I’ll hunt my local hobby shop for a curved tool



I only provided the link to demonstrate what sort of tools I use. I actually got mine from Ebay, so I’m sure you can get something similar. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a dental site that had the exact tool I use, so I had to explain in detail the shape I’m talking about. I find it very good for “tucking” putty into corners and under arms and so on, as well as rounding things out without a finger.

Going to try the rubbing alcohol tonight. :slight_smile: I have a great test case on my GH entry…


As everyone else has said use layers, but USE A MIXTURE OF GREENSTUFF + BROWNSTUFF!

I can't beleive i'm one of the only ones on this site to use it!

I'm adding to this thread awfully late in the day, but you're not the only one to use it. I started using the mix of GS and BS a long time ago and I'm sure I posted on Hand of Hashut about the benefits of the mix.

In my opinion, doing stuff like beards is much easier with the mix - it sticks like greenstuff but takes sharp detail MUCH better, and is far easier than either individually to control.