Been delayed a bit with my orc projects working on other things…mostly chaos related. But I’m getting back at it. I’ve taken on a commission to build a bunch of orcs as I build my own orc army inbetween building Romans and Chaos and etc. Slightly running the risk of burning myself out on the models, but diverse themes maybe will help out. For my army I’ll continue building the blorcs while building these orcs.
The following are the beginnings of the first of two Orc boy units on commission, they’ll differ from my boys in that they will be beating up on Vampire count elements. The first unit of boyz will be doing just that against zombies. I planned to use the 40k Nobs in the front rank because they are the biggest and baddest and would be leading the units. So off we go…
One of the Big 'Uns:
The bannerman and musician:
I think the 40k Ork Warbike faring makes for a neat manner piece.
Ah the beginnings of the first problems in ranking…I’ll fix that by assembling everything in various stages and also by raising in elevation some of the models to eliminate or limit conflicts.
The ultimate goal with all of this, is not to repeat a single miniature.
No. I did learn how to do this by reading an article that is probably still out there somewhere that was written by Reaper Miniatures sculptor Bobby Jackson. I practiced this on a regular modeling clay first. Its a lot like using a typewriter, push in one direction all the way across one line, get to the end of the line, move to the next line go the opposite direction all the way across the line.
how many orcs are you going to be making? are you going to paint them as well?
As many as it takes, right now I'm commissioned to build just under a 1000 pts, and the plan is to build something around 2000+. So first two units are 25 strong, two shamen, Unit of Wolf Riders..... As to paint, no, just building, I rarely paint commission work.
Next up is a stereo-type thing, when you do orcs, I think you must have a bit of animosity. Its over-the-top fun if you ask me, but it makes for good character in the unit and keeps the rank and file interesting especially in the back ranks. This first one is sort of an homage to Victoria.
At the time of building this, I'm relatively new at converting orcs, so lets keep it somewhat simple. For the first fight scene I am just starting to work out the flow of them, to see what works, what doesn't, what joints can be manipulated, etc.
This type of fight scene has been done a lot, but I have always liked it. The next scene I will push it a bit further and that next one will lead into the next and the next and so on.
So the mayhem commences.
neat bit of animosity. I plan on making a few of those as animosity counters but I never get around to it. I noticed that you use both brown stuff and green stuff is one better than the other? why not just use green stuff?
They both have there uses, I don’t think overall one is better than the other, but they are different and more suited to doing certain things better than others. In this case the brown was left over from another project and so as not waste it I used it.
Greenstuff (also known as Kneadatite Blue-Yellow)
It is the most common putty you see used. It will cure solid, but will retain some flexibility. Very similar to a rubber. Its strength is that it is excellent for making organic shapes. Its weakness is that it does not hold well for sharp edges. If you want really sharp edges, use your Xacto Knife and cut those edges after the GS has cured. GS can easily be cut once cured. GS does not take well to sanding or filing, but that does not mean you cannot smooth it out after it has cured. To smooth it after it is cured, use a sharp razor blade and gently shave the GS with the edge of the blade. Holds detail very well. Semi-sticky like gum in the early stages of curing, after being mixed.
Brownstuff (also known as Kneadatite Brown-Aluminum)
BS is a hard putty that combines a bit of flexibility with the ability to be sanded and filed into sharp edges. It cures harder than GS, and is more brittle. BS is often used for making mechanical looking parts or other metal parts like sword blades. I have also found that BS is much easier to get smooth before its cured than GS. Does not work as well as GS when sculpting more organic looking stuff, better suited for mechanical things. I also love using it for large cloth like things and banners, works especially well for capes.
thanks for that, it is really helpful, Ive always been curious about the differences in the different colored putties that are available. Here have 5 slaves to help with your efforts.
Thanks crusha, I’m putting those slaves to good use.
The first fight scene was a bit easy, I need a bit more volume, so I turned it up a couple notches with this one, still not overly loud, but a bit more dynamic. The first one was intended to run across the back rank of the unit. This one is intended to run along the flank in the back two ranks. Its going to be like a cool jigsaw puzzle.
It has a bit more flare.
The white stuff on the bases that I’m using to elevate things is Aves Apoxie Sculp, cures to rock like hardness, works good for this type of stuff as it takes to being drilled and pinned very well.
Still not sure I like the flail, but its different.
