Xander:
Playlist, 8 Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk&feature=PlayList&p=135DE5CCC89CD7B3&index=0
First video:
Rate 5 and leave comments! Questions welcome. 
Nicodemus:
Great set of videos, thanks for posting.  Now I know why you don’t need mine 
I find most plastic miniatures have a low enough density that you can pour your bottom layer of a silicone mould directly and just rest the plastic pieces in the top. They’ll sink half way on their own.  About 24 hours later you can just paint on some rubber-to-rubber mould release and pour the top half.
For metals you can do something similar, but I pour a thin base layer first and then the next day that acts as a stop so that metal minis don’t sink all the way to the bottom of the mould. From there you can pour in the silicone to the half-way point and the next day pour the top half.
In video #5 at the 3-4 minute mark, I’m not sure how many air pockets or bubbles you end up with in the finished product, but if you pour slower and from a much greater height the stream of silicone will become thinner than the size of the trapped bubbles and they will pop themselves during the pour.  I approve of the tapping at the 5-minute mark of video 5 as well, although I sometimes drop the entire mould straight down from a 10-20cm height.  I find that small air bubbles trapped in the silicone reduce the lifetime of the mould, especially if they’re trapped near the surface detail of miniatures. The importance of the whole preparation and pouring of the mould stage can’t be stressed enough, IMHO.
Again, great posting!!
~N
Kera foehunter:
Great video !!! i hope you got grims ok to cast it lol he a real grumpy bear when he gets mad !! can’t wait to see the more
Grimstonefire:
Great series Xander.
I learned a few things watching this, it never occured to me to use mould release ontop of the plasticine in the first half.  I will definately be doing that.
Your sprue idea was good as well, I did something similar with smaller bits of plastic, but nice big channels would help.  The process I do generally is pretty much identical to yours.
Something I do that you didn’t was to actually paint the moulding rubber onto the models before pouring in.  I don’t get bubbles on the model that way, but it ruins the brush each time so get cheap ones.
Another thing worth mentioning is that the air you trap in the syringe can be an issue if there are still areas where air can trap.  So I would recommend squeezing the plunger a bit to get it dripping before sticking it into the mould.  It’s not so important if you’ve not got much air in there, but you notice on the 3rd mould Xander had a fair bit of air sucked up.
It was very interesting for me watching this, seeing as I have also made moulds of the same models.  I think the angles you put the models in was better than in mine, although the brotherhood guy you used has significantly fewer sharp angles than when I did mine (the mould was breaking down when I gave Xander these, so I had to fill some areas in a bit).
You picked a good angle to put the immortal in, I didn’t think it through properly and put the arm in one side of the mould (as opposed to half in either side as you did).
Any chance you could load some close up shots of the casts? I’d like to see how my repair work came out.
@Kera
I gave these to Xander to thank him for creating CDO and all the hard work he put in.  I don’t mind him casting them at all.
Nicodemus:
Great series Xander.Ditto. This works amazingly well and makes the difference between a casting that needs a lot of green stuff to patch up spots, and one that's ready to be primed and painted (well, almost).
Something I do that you didn't was to actually paint the moulding rubber onto the models before pouring in. I don't get bubbles on the model that way, but it ruins the brush each time so get cheap ones. ;)
Grimstonefire
I just dab a little silicone on to the mini, a very small amount and then spread it around with my finger and then blow very hard on it so that it spreads out and into all the crevasses. After that I just dab on a little more with a popsicle stick and put it into the poured silicone.
Oh, and just a word of warning. Most of the resins are cyano-based, hence the fast reaction. Essentially the same idea as Krazy Glue (which is cyanoacryate). People can check the MSDS sheets companies provide to be sure. While they aren't highly toxic, multiple exposures over time usually result in hypersensitivity (I have this). Even for people without hypersensitivity, the resins (before they react fully) will also react with oils in your skin. Your hands are probably going to be fine for 99+% of people, but there is a lot more oils in, and on, the skin of your face - especially your cheeks and nose. ... So my advice is don't rub your nose when it starts to itch as a lot of people will end up with a blister within a few days, and within 3-4 days it'll look like a full-on chemical burn.
Just my 2 cents.
~N
Xander:
I’ve casted them 5 times ,and assembled 4 Immortals and 3 Brothers. I am trying to mix things up so I am converting them as well. When I have 5 of each I will take some shots. I am really having fun putting these guys together.
Grim’s figures are really sweet, and it was an awesome bit of thanks on his behalf! I was pretty stoked to know that I would soon have my own Grimitures. 
His early sculpts on HoH were some of my earliest inspiration for Chaos Dwarfs and sculpting!
Thanks for all the comments guys. Hopefully these videos show how simple it can be to make molds. I’ll be showing the series around some other web sites, which might attract some new eyes to the Chaos Dwarfs on my channel.
Grimstonefire:
@NIcodemus
That really sucks.  Another, though much less important thing is that resin will ruin pretty much anything it settles on once mixed.  Desks, carpets, clothing.
Is there much of a mould line on your casts?  I managed to get practically none on the immortal, though the brotherhood guy needed a bit of cleaning around the head and arms.
Xander:
The mold lines are fairly negligible. Mostly just where the sprue meets the model is where I have to touch things up.
GRNDL:
Holy cremola! That’s like $40 Cdn of RTV rubber!!!
Also, nice vid series. Like Grim, I do most of that as well. The sprue idea is good, but I generally build loose vents and irrigation channels and then refine them throughout casting by cutting the mold.
Lego is the aces!! Its standardized sizes allows you to easily make the same mould box over and over and also help in determining the approximate volume of the fill, so you don’t waste rubber. Although in Xander’s case, he’s very comfortable with large volume pours of RTV!! Most of my moulds are about 1" to 2" cubed. The biggest ones have been terrain tiles and lizardman glyph plates, but those are shallow moulds.
wallacer:
Awesome series of videos.
The whole process is a lot more straightforward than I realised.
Malorn:
Gw should go home We could make our own CD Army box, if people send their molds our elected “supercaster”. With a little work, we could make some fairly cheap and goodloking CD armies quite fast, for the newcomers who are afraid of greenstuff, but like the hellcanon styled Chaos dwarfs. Of course the money had to be split between the caster and every sculptor associated with the project, but it could be arranged
Just an idea though…
Great video Xander! Gives a great insight and knowhow
Nicodemus:
Gw should go home :P We could make our own CD Army box, if people send their molds our elected "supercaster". With a little work, we could make some fairly cheap and goodloking CD armies quite fast, for the newcomers who are afraid of greenstuff, but like the hellcanon styled Chaos dwarfs. Of course the money had to be split between the caster and every sculptor associated with the project, but it could be arranged :PProvided the sculptors are OK with it (and no copyright bitz went into making it) some of them could be offered as prizes for a WOH contest... kind of like what they're doing with the Border Town Burning Competition and the Chaos Dwarf Warband.
Malorn
~N
warh:
realy good video guide!
did lern a loot
Ishkur Cinderhat:
Well Sir that’s a very nice tutorial and also an interesting take on mold making. I make molds for some 10 years now and I actually never thought of making them in such a way that the resin will rise into the cast and push out the air on top. But the casting result looks pretty much flawless to me. I shall take that into consideration next time! Have 5 stars. :cheers :hat off
Xander:
High Praise from an experienced Mold Maker and Caster! Ya, I am not sure where that idea game from really, but it's worked quite well for me. :)
Well Sir that's a very nice tutorial and also an interesting take on mold making. I make molds for some 10 years now and I actually never thought of making them in such a way that the resin will rise into the cast and push out the air on top. But the casting result looks pretty much flawless to me. I shall take that into consideration next time! Have 5 stars. :cheers :hat off
Ishkur Cinderhat
Thanks for the comments everyone. I've been wanting to get this series done for a while, so it's great to finally have it done! The kit I used is pretty neat. It's a great all in one package for those who want to try casting. ;)
Thanks again, guys!
clam:
Awesome video show :hat off
Wish you’ve made it six months ago, though - could/would have saved me from a lot of trouble.
Kera foehunter:
Great series Xander.hey just watching out for ya:hat off just teasing you all
@Kera
I gave these to Xander to thank him for creating CDO and all the hard work he put in. I don't mind him casting them at all.
Grimstonefire
I would like some Grim figures too
i even better looking than xander:P
Xander:
I would like some Grim figures tooPsshhht. Did you see me in the last Word of Hashut? I was looking fine in that CDO T-Shirt. ;)
i even better looking than xander:P
Kera foehunter
The figures really are quite cool. I'll need to get some pictures of some of the assembled ones.
Kera foehunter:
Xander
I would like some Grim figures tooPsshhht. Did you see me in the last Word of Hashut? I was looking fine in that CDO T-Shirt. ;)
i even better looking than xander:P
Kera foehunter
Ha ha ha ! that a good one !! the reason why i don't have pictures in my cdo shirt is that you can read is has war
online
all kidding aside could you please post some of the minni"s please
warh:
hello.
sorry to post in a old thread but where could i find this starter kit in europe without
need to pay a shipping on 70 dollar or a overpriced price at 75 pound?