TheHoodedMan:
Today I got a model from titan forge (the golem, yeah). The material looks less like resin but more than plastic.
Does anybody have experience if plastic glue works with titan forge models?
Thank you.
Thommy H:
Plastic glue is polystyrene cement, so it’ll only work on polystyrene-based plastic like the kind GW makes its figures from. It works by reacting with the material and melting the surfaces together, so if you want to try it on the models you have, just put a little dab on an inconspicuous surface and see if it starts to dissolve it. If it does, it’ll work.
However, for resin, metal or other plastics you’ll need superglue. I’d just use that right off to be honest. Works on everything.
Bloodbeard:
You’ll properly need to use super glue. I simply use the cheapest one I can find, small tubes, comes with three in a pack for 2 euro. Generally my experience is that all this small cheap tubes of super glue is better than the expensive GW/Super Attack ect. brands.
Try to do the test that Thommy suggests. Yet Titan Forge stats it’s resin, so plastic glue properly won’t work.
Looking forward to seeing that golem next to some regular CDs.
Kamphre:
I used superglue for my models and the miniatures didn’t fell in pieces… 
But as said before, try the plastic glue on sprue bits and you’ll know, it’s a good advice.
TheHoodedMan:
Hi,
thank you. I would prefer plastic glue if possible because like mentioned before it dissolves the molecular structure of the material and the workpiece regains it while hardening. So after glueing effectively its one piece and much more reliable for gaming purposes without using drills and sticks.
Believe it or not, there is barely a scrap on the model parts to test extensively but it looks like the grey plastic GW uses, perhaps a little harder.
But I will try it at the bottom of the feet or so and will let you know if it worked.
TheHoodedMan:
To conclude this: Plastic glue didn`t work out well, so I turned to super glue and strengthened some joints with metal sticks (how is this called in English?).
Onyx:
I found the best technique is to strenghten joints just as you said and use superglue (yeah: what IS the English word for ‘stiften’!?).
In addition one of the following:
a) The two parts fit together without ANY kind of visible gap: Use a flat rasp like this one on both sides to very slightly rough them up
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Then apply a very small amount of superglue and press them together tightly. This produces the strongest connection possible and will never come apart. Resin and plastic are more likely to break NEXT to the joint.
b) If a is not possible (case b is the norm): Apply superglue to both sides. Stick a small pad of green stuff on the pin (use yellow and blue at a 1:1 ratio). Press together as tighly as you can without breaking anything. Excess green stuff and super glue will spill out of the joint. You should remove that with a modeling tool.
Both methods yield results that are not comparable to just using glue. Your miniatures will never come apart again. Ever.
EDIT: Using a pin is not mandatory for these techniques. But it is damn cool.
TheHoodedMan:
Thank you. You remembered me to use green stuff also WHILE glueing not just after.
Used above method b) to assemble my next 10 russian dwarves and it did not only work out but also sped the process up a lot!
Admiral:
A long-term work saving philosophy is to always pin if possible, and always use super glue for assembling models. Even when plastic glue works, you can be sure that a pinned and super glued miniature will remain intact long after plastic models have had to have parts re-glued due to falling off.