Excellent conversion!
Agreed, please copy-paste the posts as a tutorial when you’re done, or say the word if tech proves a hassle and you want a hand with it. 
1 Like
Man, you never cease to amuse us!
2 Likes
This… now this is scuplting, haha. Congrats. These models are amazing and going through your blog is an absolute pleasure.
4 Likes
Degenerate hobgrots greenetically re-engineered to noble (evil noble obviously) Hobgoblins. Awesome work!
3 Likes
Thank you everyone for all the nice feedback, and @Uther.the.unhinged , I love your comment 
Just a quick update, another kitbash of the hobgrots and Frostgrave Demons, using one of the Frostgrave axes.
This noble Hobgoblin will be a boss character
And a pic of some hobby supplies on my modeling table…nothing particular, just random stuff. My apologies to Hashut if not allowed.
16 Likes
Another quick update…so far I’m enjoying kitbashing these hobgrots with Frostgrave Demons, it’s a simple conversion but the slow pace of them is due to my hobby table being full of other models etc that take precedence.
Anyways, sleeves sculpted on this Hobgoblin boss/hero…pics from various sides hopefully will give you an idea of the shapes I’m going for, which are obviously based on the 4th edition Hobgoblin style:
Next up I glued on the modified hobgrot head, as before I just cut away some of the hobgrot helmet and then add green stuff. I made a taller Scythian cap on this guy, to denote his elevated rank and status as a boss.
I really like the look of him, and honestly it wasn’t until I took these pics that I noticed he has a broken tooth. Well, you don’t climb to the upper ranks of Hobgoblin society without taking a few sucker punchs.
And on a slightly different subject, I got this in the mail today from my Mom:
She obviously knows what I love, and if you haven’t seen these U-Gears kits before, I really recommend them!
If you like mechanical models, engineering, wood working or just putting stuff together, then U-Gears will no doubt appeal to you. They’re beautiful kits, entirely of wood and most are self propelled by mechanical gears etc. They make a HUGE variety of kits of steam punk factories, cars, clocks, steam locomotives etc.
Check them out, while you still can (They’re made in Kyiv Ukraine, and hopefully they’re still operating despite the war).
m
Thanks for dropping by, cheers
20 Likes
Awesome sculpting as always, Sir. I’m always amazed by how smooth your surfaces are.
I’ve had my eye on those kits for my daughter who likes building kits of that type. More pics when you get this together please. Cheers!
2 Likes
It’s Mr Garrison’s IT! Finally!
1 Like
@Jackswift
Thank you!
And yes, once I start assembling IT, I’ll share pics.
@Nergling
It beats flying! 
I haven’t had much free time for hobbies ths past week, but I did have a couple of free hours this morning, and got a little bit of work done on my Hobgoblin boss kitbash as well.
The Frostgrave Demons that I’m using for this kitbash come with some very nice bits to customize your minis, so I gave the boss a Frostgrave dagger:
And on his belt I also gave him a skull (I will drink from your skull!) and I green stuff sculpted a leather pouch, with a small strip of plastic added to be the strap for it:
Next I’ll give him a fifth toe (stupid hobgrots) and then he’s basically all done.
I’m really liking how he’s looking, in my (heavily biased) opinion he looks way better than the GW hobgrots…hopefully you like him too.
Disclaimer : No hobgrots were harmed in this kitbash, the miserable little degenerates were happy to be upgraded.
Cheers
17 Likes
Awesome as usual. I have to correct my previous statement about armor. Watching the whole miniatures it looks more balanced and fitting with the Hobgoblin style.
Maybe they are a little too “clean”, I’d add some scratches and dents in the plates, just to show they are worn out and bad mantenaince. But it’s something you can also do with paintjob.
3 Likes
Looks awesome dude, I love the pouch and the stitching around the edge. How many of these guys are you going to do up? A whole unit of them would look unreal.
3 Likes
Hehe, arena you on vacation for life? 
Awesome GS-work as always.
2 Likes
@Bassman
Thanks! Yes, I agree with you that the armor is a nice balanced Hobgoblin style, very happy that what I’ve put together is convincing to you because I know how much you love the classic miniatures.
@tjub
Yes, I’m perpetually on vacation 
@Dedled
Thanks, I’m glad that you could spot the stitching on the pouch, I wasn’t sure how well it would be seen, but your eagle eye for small details is reassuring.
And yes! I’m enjoying these so much that I’ve decided to make a full unit (units?) of these kitbashed Hobgoblins. I’ve already started digging through my bits box for making musicians, standard bearers and wolves.
And…even crossbows.
The Frostgrave Demons have some pretty cool crossbow bits
I’ve always loved crossbows…in fact back in 7th grade shop class I secretly built a crossbow. Each day at school I secretly built small sections and parts for it, smuggling each part home in my backpack, and assembling it at home.
Surprisingly it worked, although it hadn’t occurred to me to make any type of safety mechanism, which I found out the hard way when my buddy Gene accidentally shot me in the stomach with a bolt while he was cranking it back.
Pulled it out of my gut, slapped on disinfectant and a bandage, and then broke the crossbow into bits to avoid any more mishaps. I still have a nice “V” shaped scar on my stomach.
Anyways, crossbows aren’t exactly canon for Hobgoblins, but it’s such a wicked weapon that I think it fits their evil ways.
So I just cut away the molded Demon arm, and filed the stock smooth. Glued on some hobgrot arms, and there you go, the start of Hobgoblin crossbow missile troops
As always, I’d love to hear everyone’s comments and feedback.
And, time for me to get back to my vacation.
15 Likes
I love the crossbow idea. Yeah sure the free ranging plains hobgoblins of the steppes would have bows, but where is the decent wood in the dark lands. Dawi Zharr hobgoblins are much more likely to be provided with cheap mass produced crossbows. Little training, little skill, off you go and kill stuff, Perfect for their status.
Oh and awesome builds as usual Great Khan
2 Likes
That is some seriously fantastic green stuff work!
How do you achieve such a smooth transition between the plastic and the green stuff. Looking at the legs and arms, the transition between the applied green stuff to the plastic is perfectly seamless. Often when I use green stuff (which isn’t that often 
) there is a distinct mark left where the greenstuff ends and the plastic part begins.
3 Likes
@Krulgorn_The_Mad I used to have the same problem. What helps is a small burnisher (or basically any tool that has a convex / ball shape). You then apply ample amounts of water onto the model and start rubbing the tool back and forth over the seam. The green stuff will fan out creating a very smooth transition.
2 Likes
It should be roughly shaped like a spoon. There is a video by Tom Mason on basic tools. If you look for dental tools search for Wax 5, LeCron, Zahle or Hylin. All sculpting tool sets should have a burnisher though. If you can get the now OOP Citadel sculpting tools, get those. Avoid the Army Painter sculpting tools, they are terrible in both selection and quality.
2 Likes
@Uther.the.unhinged
“off you go and kill stuff, perfect for their status”
Yes! I wholeheartedly agree and I love your deep understanding of Hobgoblins
@Krulgorn_The_Mad
Thanks, I’m glad that you like my green stuff work.
I’ve noticed over the years that the #1 question I get from people is how do I make such smooth surfaces and transition of green stuff. Everyone has their own tricks of the trade, and what’s important is that you find a way that you’re comfortable with. @Anzu has some very good suggestions (thank you!).
But for me, all I use is my fingertip and spit.
I never use water…again, to each their own, nothing wrong with water, but personally I think spit works better. So I just lick my finger and apply it that way to the miniature. Water runs off everywhere, spit is thicker and the viscosity of spit makes for a seamless smooth surface. And nothing wrong with burnishing tools, but I don’t use them. I definitely recommend against using a burnishing tool of metal (or similar)…I would suggest rubber tipped tools such as these:
These are nice tools that @Admiral sent to me years ago, but I feel very guilty that I’ve never used any of them. Not once. Not ever.
So, here is how I do all of my green stuff surfaces:
First, just stick the green stuff directly onto whatever surface you’re working on. Make sure the surface is clean. No oils, no paint and (personal opinion) no water. Then just lick the tip of your finger and press down…
Next you’re going to want to spread the green stuff out over the model surface. Think of it kinda like painting a bedroom wall, you’ll start making numerous small strokes, spreading the paint (or in this case, the green stuff) slowly outwards from where you initially started. As you continue to drag the paint brush on the bedroom wall, the paint will slowly “feather” out and become increasingly thinner at the outside edges.
It’s the same principle with the green stuff, but instead of a paint brush, you’re using your fingertip. Don’t expect to just make a single stroke, I regularly make 20-30 slow and gentle finger strokes, licking my finger every 3 or 4 strokes.
Yes @Loidrial, I know that sounds perverted
It’ll be like this:
Once you get one edge smoothed out, proceed to the other edges. If there’s a bit too much green stuff, just use a hobby knife to trim away the excess.
Again, there’s plenty of different ways of doing it, to each their own, no worries if you prefer tools and water.
But as I said, I get asked this question frequently, so I guess I’m doing something right with just licking my fingertip with spit.
Hopefully this helps 
11 Likes
Thanks @Anzu and @Fuggit_Khan . Lots of great information; very much appreciated! Hashut’s blessings upon you both.
Looking forward to seeing more fantastic work in this thread! So much talent.
2 Likes