i'm pretty sure dettol is on eBay if you really want to get hold of it?
edit: after a quick search: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DETTOL-ANTISEPTIC-DISINFECTANT-LIQUID-750-ML-UK-LQQK_W0QQitemZ380119484553QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_HomeGarden_CLV_Cleaning_CA?hash=item5880e30889
this guy will post internationally, it might be a bit expensive, i'm not sure.
nitroglysarine
You can also buy it on Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Dettol-Antiseptic-Liquid-England-Bottle/dp/B001G7PZ74/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1273413933&sr=8-1
I use breaking fluids to clean my old miniatures. Works well on both metal and plastic models. Just put it in a jar for about a day and scrub it all off with a brush. Wash it thoroughly before you paint though. After all it’s still oil.
The only downside, if you can call it a downside. The glue on the miniature might desolve.
I am aware this an old thread, but I just wanted to say that i have seen a couple of people in this discussion, and many people in other threads on other hobby forums endorse the use of automotive brake fluid as a stripping agent for plastic models.
I feel I should mention, that most automotive brake system hydraulic fluids, especially Dot 3 and Dot 4 solutions, are highly carcinogenic, which is why mechanics usually wear gloves when pouring them into.out off vehichles.
Just thought Id mention it, as I have met very few people who seem to be aware, and subsequently I have seen many hobbyists spend hours stripping models with their bare hands immersed/exposed to this nasty stuff.
Just had a look at the bottle in the bathroom. the active ingredient is Chloroxylenol 48mg/ml (4.8% w/v), (god knows what else is in it). I did look at a no-name brand a while back, same colour and everything but the main ingredient was different. That ingredient info might help all you lot from elsewhere in the world find the same stuff in a different brand.
i used the dettol as you describe guys but the problem is that my models have gotten a weird grey-green colour, im afraid that the pevious colours mixed up. i used excessive (really excessive) rubbing with a sponge and managed to remove the whole paint in some models but in some it just wont come off! i used a toothbrush before that but it got all sticky and ended up dirtying the models rather than cleaning them. my fingers were all sticly and covered with that thing as well.
anyone had similar problems?
does anyone know how to deal with this?
NOTE: this is the first time i tried to strip models, i might have done something wrong.
They are metal right? Never tried my hand at plastics so dont know about those but if they are made of metal:
Try putting the green/grey ones in the dettol again for a few hours, give it another scrub (put soap on the sponge and use running, medium-hot water). Should do the trick IIRC.
I find it best to put a dot of liquid washing up stuff on the toothbrush and then do it, rinse the model in the dettol solution (or soapy warm water) and add a bit more if you need to and repeat!
I just wanted to add a bit to this thread and clear some things up… hopefully!
I’ve just stripped 8 BC’s, a hero and some plastic ghouls from the VC army. I also stripped a ES cannon and a Death Rocket this way.
1. Using Dettol - I’d reccomend you guys wear gloves when you are going to be stripping for a few hrs, this stuff will eventually dry out your hands for a few days if you’re exposed too long.
2. Use it neat, DONT Dilute it with water. When you add water, it creates a “milky solution”, not advised. Let your models (plastic or metal) soak for 24hrs - place them in a jar with a LID ON, and make sure they are fully covered in dettol. To scrub them, have a little pot of dettol to clean your scrubbing brush in. DO NOT USE WATER. If you use water you will end up with a thick “film” of paint and coagulated water/dettol which is a pain in the arse to get off - scrub using brush lightly and clean brush often with dettol, keep scrubbing til all paint is off. Once ALL the paint is off, THEN you can rinse the model in water and dry it.
3. It DOES melt some glues - plastic glues are more susceptible I think. Its not affected any of the superglue I’ve used though. Even after extensive periods of time soaking in dettol.
4. It stinks, its a chemical. Only do the above process in a well ventilated area, take breaks every 30 min or so… ignore this bit if you want, but you’ll learn the hard way oh and Dettol will stain some clothes.
5. Effect on Green Stuff - Not 100% sure but it seems to me that the older the Green Stuff is, the less effect the Dettol has - it doesn’t seem to be effective against ancient green stuff. I had some in the gaps around the connections at the body/bull of the Bull Centaurs CD’s and the Dettol didn’t strip it out, it was fine.
6. It is NOT good for black plastic bases! Remove your bases from the model first - dettol will cause some black plastic bases to become very soft and they will mishape/bend easily. I strongly reccomend that you do NOT put bases in to Dettol.
7. I think the active ingredient with regards to paint stripping is actually the Pine Oil? I believe in America you can get a different product… green something or something green, which seems to do relatively the same thing. Perhaps pure Pine oil will work? I’m not sure - I’m from the UK. One thing is for certain - you can bulk buy Dettol off the internet, so if you have a lot of figures to strip its probably worth trying that.
8. Effect on Forge World/Resin models… I have no idea - not tried it. Hopefully somebody can clear this up for us!