Da Crusha:
I heard at a pigment seminar that you should use pigments after you have applied a clear coat to the model. I remember him talking about it being the last thing you do to a model.
Great army by the way.
Gunnerson:
I heard at a pigment seminar that you should use pigments after you have applied a clear coat to the model. I remember him talking about it being the last thing you do to a model.I tried this on my greenskins and while the pigment was well applied and looked nice it is a powder and as such would come off on fingers when touched. The frosted appearance really only happens on the bases. If you look at the Blunderbuss, bazooka and mortar I applied it around barrels and the frosted look did not happen. I do not apply as liberal a coat of pigment as I do the bases. I do make it much heaver on the base than the barrel.
Da Crusha
Great army by the way.
Thank you!
Da Crusha:
I just looked over my notes as I haven’t used pigments since the seminar over a year ago. you’re supposed to use a sealer so you don’t rub the pigment off. he also said that forgeworld and pastel pigments are crap, avoid Self Binding, no mixer and bonded pigments, and pigments and realistic water make mud.
the guy that taught the seminar was the guy that owns secret weapon miniatures. you might want to check it out, there are some videos. He said he wasn’t there to bash all other products and sell just his own but that’s kinda the feeling we got from it.
Khaas:
I use Vallejo and Secret Weapon Pigments myself, the best way to apply the sealer is with an airbrush in my opinion, keeps it from getting rubbed off.
Gunnerson:
I use Vallejo and Secret Weapon Pigments myself, the best way to apply the sealer is with an airbrush in my opinion, keeps it from getting rubbed off.So the sealer would be different than the GW clear coat? At present Im applying with water and then once it dries using Isopropyl Alcohol and after it dries the GW clear coat/sealer stuff.
Khaas
Gunnerson:
So I was able to bust out some minis on week off I had. I haven’t taken pics yet as Ive not finished and just been tied up with the Doc, and some Job interviews. I am hoping to hear back on one of them this week. It will be a different line of work completley and a $3 an hour pay cut in a state that has a 60% higher cost of living…Ill have to sell a couple armies and cut my spending a lot. No cable, no night of dinner and the movies with the wife once a week and so on.Loosing an army or will be okay I guess as the entire state only has one wargaming location. In the end if I get the job I think in the long run it will be a good change and worth the losses Ill have to take.
Back to the mini front…I am still looking for more suggestions on how to best correct the issues Ive previously mentioned about the “frosted” appearence I am getting after clear coating over my pigments. If it would help anyone who has more experience with pigments I can throw up some WiP pics of what I do with it showing consistancy ect, there might be a correction I need to make there.
Fuggit Khan:
Well I have no experience with pigment powders, but I talked to some people down at the local hobby store and they said it could be one or more of two things that causes the frosted effect:
1) People generally spray clear coat downwards (which make sense), but too much heavy spray pointing downwards causes a thicker coat of paint at the base which can ‘pool up’ causing the pigment to lift and ‘float’ to the top while still wet. Once the clear coat dries the pigment causes the frosted effect because it is no longer on the model but actually raised ever so slightly above the surface, making a murky/cloudy effect.
2) It looks like your bases are cork? Well again, too much heavy spraying and the cork will soak up and mildly saturate, which again contributes to ‘pooling up’ of the spray and lifting of the pigment before it can dry. They suggested cork should be sealed first before painting, especially in cases of humidity.
Again, I have no experience, but the guys I talked to are all talented hobbyists…hoping this helps.
Gunnerson:
I think I am bonded pretty well to the base with the pigment but I could see the cork causing a problem now that you mention it. Ill try sealing the next batch then pigment and seal again.
Gunnerson:
Its been a while sense my last update. I had some minis to finish for another army prior to the OFCC tourney so I spent several weeks pumping minis out. Overall I did fair in the event finishing 2:3. I strongly feel that had my game against the Brittonians gone more than 4 turns I would have gotten a draw if not a win. I don’t blame the other guy as I had been very aggressive with my redirectors during the Vangaurd move knowing he would likely concede the first turn to pray. This allowed me to dictate his first turn which he did not like and he had a lot of difficulty choosing how to move. During his second turn he had to recover and try to avoid several Orc charges. As it was on his 4th we ended with 25ish SO big’uns including my Warboss and Great Shaman (with fists of Gork up) in HtH with 1 Grail knight (to the front in hth with Shaman), 1 Paladin BsB (to the front in HtH with my Warboss), 2 Knights Errant (in my left flank), 2 Knights of the realm(in my right flank) to top it off I still had Frenzy. Each of the mentioned minis were the total minis left from their respective units. I had lost the game by about 800pts.
Some of what I was working on is below… Oh, the empty spaces in the blocks are the minis that needed fixing prior to the event. The 40mms with fanatics on them were unit fillers.
Fuggit Khan:
Good to see an update from you (I really enjoy your stuff)…and I like the blue face on the giant, a very cool way to tie him in with the overall Orc theme for your army. Hoping to see more Big Hats :hat off
Gunnerson:
Good to see an update from you (I really enjoy your stuff)...and I like the blue face on the giant, a very cool way to tie him in with the overall Orc theme for your army. Hoping to see more Big Hats :hat offThanks! I plan to get some more stuff up soon. I got a bit burned out getting other stuff finished for the tourney and took a week or 2 off to play "Last of Us". I pretty much finished my first 20 blunders. I need to go back and finish the bases and my musician needs fixin. I got everything clear coated and then bumped the table and nocked the musician on to his hat on the table below. The problem is that there are years of dust and overspray on the table so all the debris stuck to the wet clear coat. I tried to match the paint but it didnt work. I am going to just repaint the top of his top hat!:hat
Fuggit Khan
I am still having trouble with the GW clar coat "frosting" after I seal the Flames of War pigments. I think my next attempt will involve using a brush on clear coat followed by spray. I did notice that if I apply a "heavy" layer of GW clear coat on the areas with the pigment it will some times eliminate the frost. To do this though I have to apply 2-3 coats while the prior coat is still wet.
Gunnerson:
Time for more Chaos Dwarfs!! Blunderbuss unit number 1! I think Ill end up painting 8 more but here are 22 with 1 40mm unit filler. I am thinking I would probably not run more than 30 in a single block I feel like 25 is the normal amount I would run but 30 is a maybe. I am not sure what I am going to paint next maybe an Iron Daemon or perhaps Astrogath…
Yodrin:
Very nice unit! Like the way the hat fades to yellow, nicely done. Love your bases!!
BABIS:
very nice models 
This message was automatically appended because it was too short.
Gunnerson:
Thanks for the Compliments! I was originaly going to go for a swamp type base but that did not work well for the pain train so I opted for a moist high desert look.
I think I am going to work on the Slave Ogre for the Dreadquake next and at the same time work on Astrogath. I have them both primed and on a base. The ogre is even basecoated.
Fuggit Khan:
Loving the old school colors on your blunderbuss guys…very nicely done and I especially like the yellow fading effect on the Big Hats.
Gunnerson:
Loving the old school colors on your blunderbuss guys...very nicely done and I especially like the yellow fading effect on the Big Hats.Thanks!
Fuggit Khan
To get the yellow look I started with Citadel Squig Orange over the entire area. I followed that up with VGC Orange fire and another orange (cant remember the name at the moment) and then to Sunburst yellow and Flash Gitz yellow from GW. All of these were heavily watered down and applied in multiple coats. Once that was done I used the GW orange and yellow shades over the approprate locations. I tried to keep the theme going on the undergarments and the trim pieces for the large armour plates.I used grey shades for most of the other trim pieces. The Rank and file are getting VGC green looking to be a "jade" look for the larger armour "negitive" spaces and on the Warmachine crews I think Ill continue to use the Blue for the negitive space in order to keep them uniform but different. I may take them all to the "jade" look but Ill decide once I get a few done.
Kera foehunter:
I do like the colors you have picked for your blunderbusses
Gunnerson:
I do like the colors you have picked for your blunderbussesThank you Kera!
Kera foehunter
So no pics at the moment but Ill try and provide some textual info. I had to send my home keyboard into the manufacturer for repairs so I can't type anything up. At work I can't add any pics! I basecoated 1 skull cracker and 1 iron daemon. I also got Astrogath and the ID crews. For the 2 ID minis I primed them black and then airbrushed them with a mixture of 95% and 5% VMC metal medium. Over this I applied a coat of hairspray and another coat of Golden Acrylic Black that was a 50/50 water paint mix plus some additional VMC metal medium. The plan is to be able to use a stiff bristled bruch and water to lift portions of the top black mixture from the mini to expose some of the "shiny" brown undercoat which I can then clear coat and begin making the exposed brown areas appear more corroded. In addition to this I got a solid basecoat laid down on the IDcrews and Astrogath! For those I used VGC Gory Red and applied a coat that was about 50/50 water and paint. I like the first coat to be thin enough that the whit primer is still visable under the red. I then apply a second slightly darker coat about 70/30 this keeps all of the detail very clear and keeps the layers super translucent and easy to add layering coats.
Gunnerson:
Sooooo still waiting on my Keyboard to arrive…
I played in a doubles event this weekend with both my teammate and my self having 1250 points.
My list comprised of
Castillian+ Heroes Bane, Enchanted Shield, Talisman of preservation
25 blunders +1 LD banner
Iron Daemon
Skull Cracker
1250pts
LORDS - 290
archmage, level 4 (shadow), book of hoeth, opal amulet (290)
HEROES - 309
noble, battle standard bearer, griffon, swooping strike, swiftsense, golden crown of atrazar, charmed shield, heavy armour (309)
CORE - 315
25 x spearmen, standard (235)
5 x ellyrian reavers (80)
SPECiAL - 235
15 x phoenix guard, standard (235)
RARE- 100
great eagle (50)
great eagle (50)
TOTAL = 1249
So we did really well in the first game agans a Skaven/HE team. We shut them down when the rats decided to charge the ID and the Skull Cracker rather than be charged by them. We ended up with about 1000 point win.
Game 2 aganst TK/Dwarf list went poorly. My ally and I both are learning new to us armies so there were some mistakes. The scenerio was Dawn assult. Both ID units ended up on the extreme right faceing off aganst a block of charits and the Tk rock lobber with the dwarf cannon on the extreme left with most of the opposing army. The blunders were in the center my ally was split to the 2 flanks. We had some pretty large gaps in the center of the table. They got the first turn with the casket causing 3 wounds to each locomotive and then the catapult getting a hit on the cracker and a cannonball bouncing through both. At our turn 1 both of my trains had 4 wounds on them. I decided to try and move as fast as possible to their dudes which resulted in a 4 inch move for the skull cracker and 6 for the ID. The skullcracker died the next and the ID the turn after that. My poor HE ally had his griffon cannon balled and failed to cast every spell he tried. Soooo many 1s came off his dice it quit being sad and became funny. We were tabled aside from the unit of blunderbuss.
Game 3 VC+Chaos Demons
This round was meeting engagement, My General and skullcracker started off the table. The HE general, BSB, and reavers were all in reserve. The blunders erased a unit of zombies rolling a multipler of 3 and then stood and shot 2 plauge drones to death leaveing only the champ. I then spent 4 more turns in CC with this 1 stupid plauge drone…The SC that I thought would be able to manuver in to support the blunders ended up getting “charged” by a lonely beast of Nurgle to the front and then 2 more in the flank on following turn. The poor SC was stuck slowly takeing 1-2 wounds every couple of turns. The ID set upon some crypt horrors that got stuck out of combant and unable to connect due to a very narrow gap with the ID. Unfortunatley if a regen save was available to the the horors then they decided they would use it. 3 rounds of shooting at the 8 of them killed none and instead only landed 1 wound. In the end the elves were reomved on turn 3ish. The Chaos dwarfs heald on to the end eventually fleeing and getting the blunders+general killed. The ID was still there killing nothing with its barrage of cannon balls.
All in all I was very impressed with the blunders. I found the skullcracker was wholly disappointing as it treats anything not on a 20-25mm base as unkillable and just sits there for the remainder of the game and slowly dies for 315 points. the Iron Deamon seems a much better choice.