As with many of the best projects, things start by smashing stuff with a hammer. I use scavenged slate or other rocks that fracture into layers. I prefer to take my anger out on landscaping rocks looted from elven garden patios or poolside villas. Difficult part is achieving randomness with the cracks while also fitting the base and providing surface area for the miniature.
Next, I close up gaps with green stuff, cut green stuff spheres in half for bubbles (every time I have a bit leftover I just roll it into a ball), scatter some patches of sand & baking soda ash, and liberally apply Mod Podge to the lava surface to give it some variation (and smooth it out if it’s a GW base).
Usually a second pass at the wet blending where needed, add small areas of drybrushed orange/yellow glow to rock overhangs, scatter (without thinking too hard) brown/black floaty crustules. That’s pretty much it, thanks for reading!
Thanks for the tutorial. These come out looking awesome, and the use of actual stone makes for an authentic looking base. I used to source similar stone material from a hiking trail I frequented. Alas, I have now moved 2,000 miles away and no longer have access to that source; so I now substitute with sheet cork (not nearly as authentic). Well done!
ROFLMFAO!!! Classic, I would do the same thing exactly! Matter of fact I know just the spot!
Could be a bit difficult prying my models off their current basses but this tutorial will come in handy once I start printing new models. Thanks for sharing these look awesome!
@Reaver ive got a paint tutorial already going into this edition of the Zine but this could definitely be used in future ones. After I get this one out - it might be worth reminding me!
I can understand that, I pushed airbrushing off for about as long as I could tolerate. But a few too many bad experiences rattle can priming in non ideal conditions pushed me to get a basic one. Built my own fume booth with a salvaged stove blower to keep cost down.
Where I’ve seen the biggest benefit is in painting larger FDM prints, which really accept paint differently, seeming to benefit from a several coat prime and base layer.
