Loidrial offtopic pile of stuff

Because, even if we would like, we cannot paint only CDs, im creating a placeholder for my offtopic thread.
While one thread Is gonna remain about gaslands and trash builds, this One will be some free for all thing.

So i wanna start this with my last and worst commission ever!

There was this old orc shaman from late 90s era that needed some redo.
The owner Is the guy that opened a new hobby store in the area After many years of nothing of sort around. This model was made in his teenage years

This Is what it became After 24 hours.
“Oh i didnt understand it was a commission” dude i even told you so, i told you that this model would be around 20/25 euro. Wtf
“But you made it so Quick” because i got some damn experience at least in those 15 years, i cannot join a Golden Demon, but im not a novice either.
Now im gonna demand a discount on my next big purchase because this Is the only store in the area for 15/20km, so im pissed but i cannot end the contact either after this.


That’s rough…

Can’t you just keep the model? It’s a cool model and a very nice paintjob!

It’s a weird situation, turns out gamestore owners are awkward nerds too ;p


That sucks mate! I know it’s too late but friendly tip from someone who has to talk and mail a lot about projects and scope changes with customers who want to get stuff done for free…

Always get stuff in writing, eiter by mail or on a signed piece of paper. Mail is better since its harder to fake.

Not really useful in your case but i have even recorded conference calls (with approval of each participant) to have proof of what we discussed. I even said that was the reason i wanted to record the call… We have had a few quite expensive discussions with them were they asked for changes in the scope of their software functionality but refuse to pay for them. They figured we could simply do those changes whitin the project, but that was not possible. We agreed to the changes but only if the budget would get a significant bump. In total they tried to get about 50K euro from us. A part of that 50K they got, most they did not. What they got we billed extra on another projhect so we got paid anyway but it sucks to have to be like that when 3 of my coworkers heard the same agreements. this has ruined the partnership between some of their enmployees and some of ours.

Anyway… back on topic… Regardless of money (whitch still sucks…) that is a good looking paint job. that staff looks like a real sun bleached bone and the lips, knuckles and nose are spot on. Care to share how you did that?

@bas_2312 i wouldnt have any use for that mini. I feel really bummed because it s just an akward situation. And i really the model too.

@MichaelX thats what i always did for my serious private matter. I Will start doing it for everything money involved from now on too.
People are not trust worthy.
For the recipe i will give you the details tonight at home After work. I used the army painter colors plus couple of vallejos.
No gw things involved, no contrast nor any of that mumbo jumbo nonsense lol



that staff looks like a real sun bleached bone and the lips, knuckles and nose are spot on. Care to share how you did that?

GW Bugman’s Glow (i guess i used some GWs xD damn)
Vallejo Flat Flesh
Army Painter Barbarian Flesh

Vallejo Tan Earth
Army Painter Alien purple

Army Painter Army Green
Army Painter Necrotic Flesh

Those are the colors i used the most for the skin (in general for the entire model)

Black Spray primer, then army green for the skin and bugman glow for the pink parts.
then a light, LIGHT, wash with that cavalry brown (and believe me, you cannot make it light xD it’s so dense in color) making all the recess warm and vivid
from there i started to highlight the army green + nectoric flesh, but i also added a tip of barbarian flesh to keep the model on a warmer tone and not a green rotten nurgle one (not not shiny green either)

Skin shadows:
at this point i made some shade mixing purple + cavalry brown in a wash again, that gives a realistic warm shadow that enhance those light contrast i built up by layering those greens

Pink parts:
in the end i focused on the pink parts going lighter and lighter with pink, adding a bit of white AND that necrotic flesh, so i could still tone it a bit on the green side, without making it too vivid (reason why i used pink as base and not a mix of pink and red as i wanted this orc to be old)

the bone instead is much simpler. white spray can, 2 washes of bleached bone, couple of layers of dry brush with tan + white, then another light was of bleached bone plus, you guessed it, CAVALRY BROWN HELL YEAH 666, in the lower parts.

the cloth is a starting mix of doombull brown, of whatever gw warm brown is called + black, from there on i added vallejo tan earth so i could bleach it always more, and in the higher parts i focused on the wrinkles adding more white every time. never wetblend, but small layering adding everytime

i hope all this can make some sense, i always adjust what i do while i paint, so i never have an exact recipe, but overall this is what i did.


The Orc came out very nice looking, and the bone especially reads exactly like bleached bone. Really like the blue and red on the bone as well.

Sorry to hear about the commission. I used to do commission work (mostly scratchbuilds), but my last one was to paint an army. I’m still glad I did it because I learned a whole lot about painting much, much, faster, but… the client was very unappreciative despite the work put in, and I got completely ripped off on the agreement. Pretty much from there decided I was done with commission work. Too much effort for too little gain. No more commission work. I still sell stuff I have done for myself on occasion, or do things for friends (free of charge). Changes the dynamic when money enters the picture.

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Reply: “Oh I did not understand you wanted the model back either… Sorry, sold it to some dude in Australia”

Reply: “Yeah but I charge 5 euro per hour plus I gotta add on supplies so actually you owe me like 60 euro”

What a dick of a bloke, I would suggest making them pay cash upfront no tick next time.
I also think you did an amazing job on that model, it looks sweet as! I would love to have something like that in my Greenskin army!

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The tide might have shifted, gonna get this commission box in the next days, it’s the 35 euro starter set for AoS

those evil bed sheets

and those sigmarines

probably painted in a simplified box art color scheme
i thought 12.5 euro x sigmarines, 10 euro all the rest + 5 euro materials= 170 total in approx 20 days

what do you think about the pricing?
also, those undeads are all blue color plastic so have to spray paint them, BUT the sigmarines are gold plastic…idk…could that work as a base to paint over and layer? i dont think so, but never tried either.
any clue here?

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I wouldn’t mate. Primers main job is to help paint adhere. You’d have a rough time without it.

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yeah i feel like that’s some bad idea. BUT what if i try to spray paint it with a transparent sealing spray? XD
just throwing ideas, mostly because i dont have any proper golden color and i have to buy them then lol
my golds are a mix of sivler base and strange godlen/bronze washes on top

No idea about that tbh dude. If the spray is gloss definitely no. If it’s matte…maybe? Definitely test it on something first

If you paint acrylic paint on a bare plastic model you will constantly wipe off the paint. If you eventually varnish it it wil chip very easy. If you want to do it fast, prime and get a small spray can of gold paint. Or drybrush gold.

Also… about varnish in general:

  • gloss varnish is by far the most durable but ugly as hell for most models
  • matte varnish does not protect very well in my opinion but looks ace!
  • satin is much less glossy then gloss varnish, but still quite a bit shinier than matte. It protects about the same as matte though, so avoid if possible.

“But Michaelx, what should I choose?” you ask… well do a gloss coat for durability followed by matte for looks. I have dropped models from a shelf 2m high shelf without damage. I have grabbed 80 skinks and thrown them in a box when I was in a hurry without any problems (though do not throw 80 models in a box…)


Can varnished models be stripped easily in dettol?

Im too scared of ruinning models with varnish so have to wrap every model in bog roll for transport. Takes an hr after a game to pack away…from distant memory!

Hmm good question. Haven’t stripped one of my own in a while. I think it does actually, depending on varnish type.

Might be worth a test if I find some dettol

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i’m not kidding. this has been my past 15 years in this hobby.

3.50 euro from the hardware store.
so i have actually no idea about all those fancy things xD never used white, that’s just a waste in my eyes.
i’m not an elf, i need no such thing.
color stays on by the power of anger, shouting, curses, blasphemies and hatred.

i guess i will buy a earthly color so that i can build some nice warm gold from it, i only need those sigmarines now!


From tomorrow, total lockdown once again in Italy for 3 weeks atleast.
so i put my hands on some other stuff.
It seems the guy for the AoS commission just disappeared, so i took out my old Belakor that a friend gave me many many years ago

He was in this bad shape, literally a bad shape

i was converting back then into a nurgle daemon prince lol

After a bath in nitro paint remover, this is what i have so far


That’s a great make-over! I love the skintones.

Do you plan on getting the new Belakor? I prefer the original myself.

I hope you get through the lockdown safely. In the Netherlands we have at least a couple of weeks of it to look forward to as well…

Mate nooo :weary: - thought things were getting better. So sorry to hear this.

The belakor is looking class mate. Really nice blends from black to skin tone. The scar looks great too.

WOW! That is so good of a job it looks like a new model, very well done on the restoration.

Back in lockdown?? What happened to those vaccines? Are they not working?