Streaking Grime Speedpaint: a beginners guide

A few people have been asking how I get models to table so quickly and I’ve spoken in my other beginners guides about some of the shortcuts i take. However a relatively new weapon in my Arsenal is “Ak interactive - streaking grime”

image

Today I’ll show you how I got some bits box goblins from “grey to play in less than a day” ™

What you need to know:

So first things things first. Grime is enamel paint. It is a different medium to normal acrylic. It’s a greasy oily sort of medium that won’t mix nicely with you other paints. So don’t try it!

You’ll also be using AK interactive odourless thinner.

This mixture reactivates enamel paint but doesn’t reactivate the acrylics. This is the main trick to this technique working.

What I used:
Streaking grime/thinner
Cotton Buds (Q tips to Americans)
Wraithbone spray
Plaguebearer flesh contrast
Nazdreg yellow contrast
Snakebite leather contrast
A little bit of white and black paint for eyes
Magos purple contrast
Warcolours one coat green
Leadbelcher
Kislev flesh
Basing material and tufts

Advice:

  1. use a different brush for your grime to your regular painting. Don’t let these things mix.
  2. wash your grime brush in thinner not water.
  3. this technique works well on most things BUT works particularly well on brightly coloured models and the colours white, green, yellow and brown. The grime itself isn’t pure brown. It has a slight green tinge to it.

The basic technique:

So this technique has been used a lot in my blog but today I’ll be subjecting some bits box goblins to it for science.

I start by spraying the goblin wraithbone.

I paint the flesh green using plaguebearer flesh. This is normally too light for goblins but remember we will be covering this in grime. So we need to paint brighter than we normally would.

I then paint the clothing various colours. Some is left white. Some is yellow. Parts are browns or tan colour. I try to create variety. Again I keep everything very bright. Metal parts get leadbelcher.

Now comes the step where you are convinced you’ve ruined the model (every time)

Cover that mofo in grime form head to foot.

After the grime has started to set, but isn’t fully set, use a cotton bud dipped in thinner to dab away the grime. Use a poking motion as opposed to a scraping one (contrast paint is thin and can be rubbed away easy).

Then allow to dry

These could easily be based and sent of to die at the hands of a chaos dwarf straight away. They definitely pass the 3ft test and look like a bunch of dirty smelly goblins.

However, I like to add a little bit afterwards to make them pop.

Additional steps:

These little goblins will want eyes. This particular sculpt is nice because one eye is closed. Half the work!

Everybody receives a white eyeball. While I’m at it, some edge highlights are added to models. The whole model has been darkened now so I use the original colour I used to highlight. I give the skin some highlights in warcolours one coat green and then drag it back with plaguebearer flesh again.
Next everyone gets a pupil.

To add a bit more realism I use a tiny bit of magos purple around the eye. And I highlight the elbow, knees and nose with kislev flesh.

Following this, I based them. I went with a neutral brown base colour and little pops of purple flowers that I feel contrast nicely with the yellows and greens.

These were painted in less than a day. If you exclude the drying time of grime and basing materials, it’s only really a few hours work. Any question? Ask away!

12 Likes

Great tutorial from our resident grimy streaking enjoyer!

3 Likes

Ffs hahaha so many layers here

1 Like

yes uhhh have you heard that goblins ackshually have red eyes

1 Like

but setting aside things that only a cunt would say when confronted with someone elses’ painted miniatures, especially if that person pathologically never paints his miniatures,

how do you time the “almost set but not quite set” for the streaking grime?
what happens if you leave it too long - does it not work as well with your q-tip?

1 Like

Streaking grime takes hours to fully dry. You’re usually okay :slight_smile:

In theory you could do this when it’s fully dry because the thinner would still reactivate it. Would just take a bit longer I’d imagine

It’s the speediest part of the process.

And goblins have whatever coloured eyes I paint them. Hahah

3 Likes

Really need to buy this grime and rust effect from same manufactor as I want to me vehicles really rusty.

1 Like

It’s always cool to see how people take different routes to achieve a specific results, when I make my grimdark stuff I don’t even use anymore the streaking grime as i got the defective batch of olive green instead of reddish brown one XD like for my last bull centaur for example

Well done jac!

2 Likes